What does the season of lights cost?
Enter your strings by bulb type, the nightly hours, and your electric rate — the season's kWh, cost, and LED-swap savings come out below.
FREE CALCULATOR · MONEY
One LED string costs pennies a season — a box of old incandescent bulbs costs dollars. Count your strings, set your hours, and price the season's glow — then see what swapping to LED saves.
Enter your strings by bulb type, the nightly hours, and your electric rate — the season's kWh, cost, and LED-swap savings come out below.
Your electric bill charges for energy — kilowatt-hours — not for lights. A kilowatt-hour is 1,000 watts running for one hour. So the whole calculation is one chain: how many watts all your strings draw together, times how many hours they are on each night, times how many nights, converted to kWh and priced at your rate.
Ten incandescent strings at 40W each (400W) plus ten LED strings at 5W each (50W) = 450W total. On 6 hours a night for 31 nights: 450 × 6 × 31 ÷ 1,000 = 83.7 kWh. At $0.17/kWh that is $14.23 for the season — about $0.46 a night.
Per string per season, the math is even starker: one incandescent string costs 40 × 6 × 31 ÷ 1,000 × $0.17 = $1.26; one LED string costs $0.16. Swapping those ten incandescent strings saves about $11.02 a season — at $9 a replacement string, the new LEDs pay for themselves in about 8 seasons on energy alone, and they last 10+ seasons.
The bars above price the same comparison for your own numbers — your display against its all-LED twin.
For the full strategy — the timer question, the swap decision, and why your December bill still jumps even with LEDs — see the guide How much do Christmas lights cost to run?. For the rest of the holiday budget, use the holiday budget calculator.
At 6 hours a night for 31 nights at $0.17/kWh, a 100-bulb incandescent string (~40W) costs about $1.26 for the season; an equivalent LED string (~5W) costs about $0.16. Multiply by your string count — the bulb type is the whole story.
Yes — roughly. A 100-bulb incandescent string draws about 40 watts; a comparable LED string draws about 4–5 watts, which is an 88–90% drop. The price gap between an all-incandescent and an all-LED display is about ten to one.
They save runtime, and runtime is money. Cutting a display from all-night (say 14 hours) to a 5 PM–11 PM timer window cuts the season cost by more than half. A cheap mechanical timer pays for itself the first December.
For the energy alone, the payback is slow: swapping ten 40W strings for $9 LED strings saves about $11 a season, so the new strings pay for themselves in roughly 8 seasons. The real argument is longevity and safety — LEDs last 10+ seasons and run cool — and the swap pays back much faster on big displays.
Because lights are a small slice of winter demand. Heating (or a heat pump working harder in the cold), shorter days meaning more indoor lighting, extra cooking, and guests with hot showers usually move the bill far more than the lights do. Price the display in the calculator, then look at heating and hot water for the rest.
Check the labels: a standard US household circuit is 15 amps (about 1,800W), and most plug-in timers are rated well under that. LED displays almost never get close; big incandescent displays can. Outdoor lights also belong on a GFCI-protected, outdoor-rated timer — never an indoor-only timer outside.
Slightly more on the fancy settings, sometimes less. Twinkling and chasing add controller draw but keep many bulbs off at any instant; some LED strings use noticeably less on "slow glow" modes than on steady-on. The difference is small next to the bulb-type choice.
Usually yes. An inflatable's fan draws roughly 60–150 watts continuously — more than ten LED strings combined. Two or three inflatables can cost more to run than the entire light display.